This is an important feature, especially now that you only see the size in formal online communication. In offices that are not yet fully functional, suits and blazers slip out when working from home in summer and ties come loose. While the epaulettes and smooth tie hairs on the suit symbolise strength at work, they can be replaced by the structure and shape of the collar or even its absence.
Historically, the stiff passes date back to the Middle Ages, around the 15th century. Their main function was to strengthen the seams at the end of the shirt to prevent it from tearing. In the course of the next 200 years, they became larger; the collars became bigger and fell apart, and the starched collars called fringes became a symbol of rank in the social hierarchy, explains Sunak St. Barat, designer of Maison Trois, an eco-label in Bengaluru: These chains represented the aristocracy; the rich, the powerful, the rightholders and the privileged. That’s why they influenced fashion.
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The classic collar shape, a pointed shirt collar with long vertical wings, is best suited for a wide tilting frame (photo: Driesvannoten.com).
In the 1930s, the notions of workers and workers began to emerge as indicators for immaterial and manual labour or for the middle class and working class. Today’s modern avatar of the formal, clean shirt collar carries the same emotions of strength, stability and structure. Look at the high, stiff collars on that lawyer’s dress. The beauty of fashion is that there are certain physical forms that evoke psychic emotions, Barat said.
Endlessly, today chains are mainly used to diversify your wardrobe and personal style. Different types of collars help to break the perception of collar comfort and make your style more elegant and accessible.
The type of collar to be worn depends on its characteristics: the height, when the high collar rests on the neck, from the crease to the tip; the size of a large or small collar; the distance, the distance between the two points of the collar; and the stiffness, which depends on the thickness of the collar glued to the plexus tissue (also called fusion).
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The large wings on the collar and the rough corners attract the eyes horizontally.
says men’s fashion designer Troy Costa: Collar shapes have multiplied. A rule of thumb for workwear was: the wider and thicker the straps, the tighter the collars, and if the straps are thinner, the less tight the collars are. The idea was to keep things in proportion.
The modern way to choose collar sizes and types is by selecting them according to the shape of the face. A thinner person may wear a cut-off collar or a wide collar (both with sharp corners), while a taller person may wear a pointed or arrow-shaped collar (characterized by a narrower space between the points of the collar or a relatively higher neck strap), as suggested by Dr. Costa. When it comes to formal wear and tear, it is a question of showing the tie in a clearly visible place. For example, a pin (with a needle between the points of the collar) or a stool (with a lower strap under the collar flaps knotted on the top knot) can be used to deliberately lift and gently drop the tie, Costa explains. The needle adds that extra detail that catches the light. The collar of the buttons is soft and creates a more relaxed atmosphere … while at the other end of the spectrum, in formal attire, the winch collar was standard on a tuxedo, Costa says.
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The only difference between a club and a classic collar is the round glasses (photo: Etonshirts.com).
What is not so common nowadays – although Costa is a fan – is the club’s round necklace. This style is used on the Winchester shirt (where the collar and cuffs are white, while the shirt has a pattern).
One of the most popular modern styles is the mandarin necklace. In the West it is considered too casual, but it has fused with Eastern sentiments to create a unique twist in India, where it is worn for workwear and formal occasions.
It is a good choice for a tropical climate, but Costa is not enthusiastic about it. In a country like India, Kurta has already adopted this style, which is so widespread, he says, although he has made a shirt for several clients attending events in India, because it gives the whole thing an Indian touch. They (the customers) usually come from the business or financial sector and do not prefer kurt, he says.
The choice of collar can also be influenced by the fabric of the shirt, explains Akshai Narvekar, founder of the Bombay Shirt Company : If you’re looking for something summery, like a linen shirt or a print, it’s best to stick to the casual style of the collar, like buttons or Mandarin. For unconventional collars he offers a plain shirt. Then the collar is the heart of the shirt, and it stands out, says Narvekar.
WHAT’S GOING ON?
Costa believes that the button closure will remain popular because of its casual design. Menswear designers Ashish N. Sony and Kosta agree that the polo necklace, invented by tennis player René Lacoste in 1933, will be the first choice for everyday workwear because it is knitted. says Sony : Comfort is now the most important element, so clothing is generally more casual. At the same time, I focus on creating dresses with subtle details that do not require a certain size. This also includes details such as brackets, handshakes, etc.
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The detachable collar is coming back.
The style that can make a comeback is the detachable collar, which was invented in the 1830s for functional reasons. While the shirt was usually worn and hidden under the vest, the collar and cuffs were visible, and the change of collar gave the worn shirt a fresh look. Since last year Costa produces shirts with detachable collars. The tangerine collar has buttons, while the detachable collars have buckles. That’s how they’re stuck, he says.
Barat said: (Dans la Maison des Trois), we are working on the concept of shirts for men and women with detachable collars and cuffs. The base of the collar is made of tangerine. The concept is economical and practical when a shirt with multiple collars can be worn. The idea of smart consumption is what it’s all about.
The collar can be a classic part of a shirt dress, but there may not be a better time to experience it.
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